Ali Sweatshirt Sewalong Day 7 - Underarm Seam, Cuffs & Hem Band

Welcome to Day 7 of the Ali Sweatshirt Sewalong! Today is the last day of the sewalong. Does anyone else get super excited when you're almost done with a new garment? Today we will stitch the underarm seams and attach the bindings to the cuffs and hem. For all of these seams I use the serger but you can also use a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag on a conventional sewing machine. Let's get started! 

First let's sew the underarm seams. Fold the sweatshirt right sides together matching the cuffs, underarm seams and hem. Remember to pin parallel to the raw edge if you are stitching with a serger.

Stitch from the end of the sleeve to the hem. Repeat for the other side.

Now that the body is all assembled, let's prep the cuff and hem bands. Fold each cuff with right sides together and stitch the short ends. Now you have a loop for each cuff. Fold the loops with wrong sides together, matching the raw edges and press. Repeat with the hem band.

Note: If you are making a size XL or XXL and your fabric is 45" wide, then you will need to piece together two pieces of fabric to make the hem band. For size XL size, cut 2 pieces 6 x 22.25 in (15.2 x 56.5cm). For size XXL, cut 2 pieces 6 x 24 (15.2 x 61cm).

Next we'll stitch the cuffs and hem band to the body of the sweatshirt. The method is the same as the neckband that we sewed in Day 6. For the cuffs, I just divide them in half instead of quarters because they're so small. 

With the sweatshirt right side out, slip the cuff over the end of the sleeve, matching the seam in the cuff to the underarm seam and the center of the cuff to the center seam of the sleeve. Slide the cuff under the presser foot with the sleeve on top and cuff on bottom. You'll have a little "O" of fabric sitting on top of your machine, as opposed to trying to fit the sleeve opening over the bottom of the machine. Stitch around using a .5 inch seam allowance, gently stretching the cuff to fit the sleeve opening. Repeat for second cuff.

Divide hem and hem band in fourths and mark with pins. Pin the hem band to the hem matching the seam(s) in the hem band to the side seam(s). Stitch using a .5 inch seam allowance, gently stretching the hem band to fit the hem. Try to avoid stretching the hem. 

And that’s it! Your sweatshirt is all done. Woohoo!!!! If you haven’t picked up your copy of the pattern, you can find it in the shop here. Tomorrow we will be finishing the sweatshirt. Woohoo! Full schedule below.

SEWALONG SCHEDULE

DAY 1 Inspiration – Monday, Sept 17

DAY 2 Selecting your Size & Printing your Pattern – Tuesday, Sept 18

DAY 3 Fabric & Supplies – Wednesday, Sept 19

DAY 4 Sewing the Yoke & Sleeves – Thursday, Sept 20

DAY 5 Assembling the Body – Monday, Sept 24

DAY 6 Neckline Binding – Tuesday, Sept 25

DAY 7 Sewing the under arm seams, cuffs and hem band – Wednesday, Sept 26