I feel like I haven't done a lot of sewing just for myself this year but I'm that when I go back and look at my list of completed makes, it will be lengthy. I do have 100% certainty, however, that the Seamwork Kaye Top is my most often made pattern. I spend most of my sewing time making things for Sew DIY business – pattern samples, pattern hacks and tutorials. I love making those things but they're not as free and fun as making something just for myself can be.
The Kaye top was a really fun project for me to sew because it sews up super quick (very important with limited sewing time or too many projects on one's plate) and it's very wearable. I'm even wearing one as I write this blog post. The Kaye pattern includes this crop top and bicycle shorts. The pattern is by Seamwork magazine which I've been subscribed to since it first started. I always look forward to the first of the month when they release their new patterns and articles. You can buy the patterns separately or, subscribe to the magazine. If you're interested in subscribing, use this link and you can get $3. Plus, I'll get a little bonus too.
The Kaye top is a classic scoop neck crop top with wide straps. Even though it's very simple, I think it looks very current with today's fashions. It has a lining and is constructed using the burrito method. Super fast and fun to sew! It's finished with elastic under the bust. As written, there's no elastic around the neck and armholes. (More on that later.)
My first Kaye top is made with a blue double knit from my stash. I actually used it to make this Seamwork Mesa dress. It's a lovely color and easy to work with but the fabric pills horribly. I made a size M which fits my measurements and is pretty standard for me with Seamwork patterns, if my memory is correct. My bust is 38.5" and my upper bust is 35.5". Seamwork drafts for a C cup but I often need to do a full bust adjustment.
Kaye pattern before adjustments
Kaye pattern after adjustments
For my first Kaye top, I used scrap fabric and cut out just the lining, basted it together and tried it on. I could see that there was excess fabric above the bust at my underarm. To compensate, I pinched a wedge out of the front pattern piece. This really helped with that gaping. The photo on the left above is the pattern without adjutsments. The pattern on the right is with two wedges taken out of the front armhole and the back strap length reduced.
For my second Kaye top, I also shortened the back straps. I'm 5'11" so shortening is not something I usually do but the shoulder seam was sitting more forward than I wanted it to, probably due to my bust pulling it forward. This time, I used black compression fabric leftover from this leggings project. The compression fabric definitely gives more support to the bust than regular fabric. I wouldn't wear this bra top running but it works for light activity.
I really love it paired with my Summer Sweatsuit pattern like in the photos above. It makes the perfect comfy, sporty outfit. As it gets colder, I’ll be swapping the shorts for my Summer joggers hack and adding on one of my many Ali Sweatshirts.
For my third Kaye top, I attempted swim fabric. I went on a mini vacation to Palm Springs last month and I wanted to have a swim top that would be comfortable for lounging. I really love my Seamwork Reno swim top because it's very supportive, works well while swimming and has great style lines. The only thing I don't like about it, is that it has a knot at the center back to hold it in place and it's fairly uncomfortable to sit in a lounge chair with the knot at my back.
I had black swim fabric and lining left over from the Reno, so I decided to try making the Kaye as a swim top. I really debated the construction but ended up just following the instructions and using my swim fabric. Then, I took it on my trip and gave it a test! It works great for lounging but not great for swimming. Without elastic at the neck and armholes, water just whooshes in and fills up the swim suit. Kind of disappointing but it totally makes sense.
To fix the top, I just cut off the seam allowance around the neck and armholes using my handy rotary cutter. Next, I basted the lining and body together. Then, I attached 1/4 inch wide swim elastic to the neck and armhole. I used standard methods for this. I stitched the elastic to the wrong side of the opening, then turned it to the wrong side once more and top stitched. This modification made the straps significantly more narrow, (and I think less current in style), but it made the top much more functional for swimming.
I tested my "fixed" Kaye in the pool and while it's not perfect it works much better. I think it's probably because the neckline is so low, it just allows for more water to get in. Or maybe it should have less ease. I made a one-piece swimsuit for my trip and it's much tighter and works better for swimming. If you want to use the Kaye pattern for a swim top, I recommend adding elastic to the neck and arm openings. And you may want to go down a size or just use a bigger seam allowance.
Obviously, I'm not versed in how to design swimwear and swimming isn't even my favorite activity. It's more of a heatwave necessity for me. The big lesson in all of this, is that one should pay attention to what a pattern is designed for. Also, the Seamwork Kaye is really awesome pattern. And, it's fun to experiment with patterns because so much can be learned from the experience. A lot of sewing projects are not going to be 100% successful and that's ok because there's so much opportunity to learn about clothing and construction and what you like to wear in the process.
Well, I hope that you enjoyed this deep dive into my adventures with the Kaye top pattern this year. I really loved sewing this top and, equally important, I’ve also enjoyed wearing it. Hopefully, I’ll be able to squeeze in some more fun sewing projects before the end of the year. By the way, if you’re interested, the sewing planner shown in this post is a pdf printable planner available in my shop. There are two designs for the planner and you can check them out here.
