In today’s video, I’ll be showing you how to sew a Hong Kong seam finish. The Hong Kong finish is a variation of a bias bound seam finish. This method works will with medium to heavy weight fabrics. This seam finish is similar to a bias bound seam except that the raw edge of the bias tape is not tucked in on the back side, creating a very flat finish. It’s a simple seam finish to sew and creates a really beautiful look on the inside of your garment. It’s also a great opportunity to use your most beautiful bias tape.
All you need is bias tape or 1” wide bias strips, thread and your sewing machine. You can make your own bias strips or use purchased bias tape. If your fabric is particularly thick or you’re using a large seam allowance, you may want to try using a wider bias strip. You can test it out using scraps of fabric from the garment you’re sewing by sewing a seam and finishing it using this method.
How to sew a Hong Kong finish
Step 1:
Cut 1” bias strips from a lightweight cotton fabric.
Step 2:
Stitch the seam using the seam allowance designated in the pattern.
Step 3:
Place a strip of bias right sides together with the seam allowance, matching the raw edges. Stitch using a 1/4” seam allowance. Be careful not to stitch through your garment. You should only be stitching the seam allowance and the bias tape.
Step 4:
Press the bias tape away from the seam allowance and then wrap it around the raw edge of the seam allowance. If needed, pin in place. Tip: use the pins parallel to the seam line to catch more of the fabric and get a better hold.
Step 5:
Stitch in the ditch of the seam allowance and bias tape seam. You’ll be stitching through one layer of seam allowance and one layer of bias tape. This seamline will keep the raw edge of the bias tape held at the back of the seam allowance.
I really like using this finish for the Tasi Jacket. See above for the Tasi Jacket exterior on the left and the interior with a Hong Kong finish on the right. So pretty! I will be doing a separate blog post soon showing how to do this finish with the Tasi pattern and reduce the bulk at the underarm seam. Head over to the Tasi Sewalong to check it out. Happy sewing!
