Today's tutorial is a follower request! In today's video, I'll be showing you how to sew in-seam pockets. I think it's pretty universally agreed that everyone loves pockets and garments are instantly 100% better when they incorporate them. In-seam pockets can be added to the side seam of a dress, skirt, pants or shorts. They are probably the most commonly found type of pocket (I did not research that statement! lol). But, I do think they are the most beginner friendly and that's why they are found in so many sewing patterns. They are nearly invisible when wearing and do not alter the style lines of a garment. Which means, because all that stitching is on the interior, it doesn't have to be perfect or topstitched, like a patch pocket. Also, if your sewing pattern doesn't come with an in-seam pocket pattern piece, I even have one for you to download for free.
I've added a couple of extra steps/techniques to this tutorial that will help keep the pockets hidden during wearing. After all, that's part of the charm of the charm of in-seam pockets, that you can keep things hidden and stored. Years ago, I worked an office job that had a long row of vintage gum ball machines filled with different kinds of candy. The machines took pennies and there were even buckets of pennies so you could indulge in as much candy as you liked. It was my first ever job with free snacks and I especially delighted in having a pocket filled with candy. These days, my pockets are more likely to have a partially used tissue or a face mask. Oh how times change!
If the video above is not working, you can also watch on YouTube.
If you are looking to add in-seam pockets to an existing garment, you can use this method to do so. First determine the pocket placement. Then, using a seam ripper, open up the seam from about 1.5" above where the pocket will go to about 1.5" below the pocket placement. Then follow the instructions below to attach the pockets.
HOW TO SEW IN-SEAM (aka SIDE SEAM) POCKETS
SUPPLIES:
Any garment/pattern with side seams.
In-seam Pocket Pattern Piece - CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD
Step 1: If you are printing your pocket pattern piece, make sure to print at 100% (no scaling). Check that the sizing is accurate by measuring the test square.
Cut four pocket pieces. Finish curved edges.
Step 2: With right sides together, pin the pockets to the side seams. (The position will depend on the garment and your personal preference. Try on the garment or hold it up to your body to estimate your ideal pocket position.)
Stitch the pockets to the side seam using a 3/8" seam allowance. (The pattern I'm sewing uses a standard 5/8" seam allowance. Stitching the pockets to the side seams with a slightly smaller seam allowance will help keep them hidden. You can adjust for your pattern's seam allowance, or even use the same seam allowance as the side seam.)
Step 3: Finish side seams and pockets together. Press pockets away from body of the garment. Understitch pockets. (The understitching will help keep the pockets hidden during wearing. To understitch, stitch only through the pocket pattern piece and the seam allowance. This stitching will not be visible from the outside of the garment.)
Step 4: Place garment right sides together and pin side seams and pockets. Using a 5/8" seam allowance, stitch from the waistband, pivot 5/8" below the pocket, stitch around the pockets, pivot again at the side seam and then stitch to the hem.
Step 5: Press pockets and side seams to the front.
Alternately, if you want or need to press the side seam open, clip the seam allowance of the back of the garment above and below the pocket.
And that’s it! Your pockets are complete! I hope that you found this video helpful. I’ll be posting more about this dress hack soon, as well as some additional tutorials for sewing it. If you’re interested in the Miri Tank top pattern, you can find it in the shop here. And, if you’d like to support this free content, I invite you to visit the pattern shop here. Happy sewing!
