This week I had time to create a long top/dress that I've had in mind for quite a while now. I bought flowered fabric at a thrift store about a year ago. The orange fabric was in my stash of vintage fabrics I inherited from my grandma. I had matched the two in my head, knowing they would work well together.
I remember when I first started seriously sewing in high school I had a project or two that didn't turn out quite as I liked because I made the wrong fabric choice. I used to be really into calico prints but those just don't work for every style. I don't really have good advice on choosing fabric except to say you must love the fabric and the style of the garment must be flattering for your body type.
![](http://bp2.blogger.com/_wxHUmTUnh00/R0SHGXwTShI/AAAAAAAAA3c/P0n0p11IRKM/s400/McCalls5388group.jpg)
For this dress I used McCalls M5388, view D. I made view D once before and used the same size adjustments to the front yoke. I also lengthened the pattern, using a contrasting hem, widened the sleeves a little and did not use elastic for the sleeve hem.
![](http://bp0.blogger.com/_wxHUmTUnh00/R0SHG3wTSiI/AAAAAAAAA3k/Qy0PK5LS1ZM/s400/McCallsM5388.jpg)
I remember when I first started seriously sewing in high school I had a project or two that didn't turn out quite as I liked because I made the wrong fabric choice. I used to be really into calico prints but those just don't work for every style. I don't really have good advice on choosing fabric except to say you must love the fabric and the style of the garment must be flattering for your body type.
![](http://bp2.blogger.com/_wxHUmTUnh00/R0SHGXwTShI/AAAAAAAAA3c/P0n0p11IRKM/s400/McCalls5388group.jpg)
![](http://bp0.blogger.com/_wxHUmTUnh00/R0SHG3wTSiI/AAAAAAAAA3k/Qy0PK5LS1ZM/s400/McCallsM5388.jpg)
This time the biggest change I made was adding a back yoke and back facing. To make the yoke, I traced the top of the back pattern, and drew a line from the fold to the side seam where I wanted the yoke to end. I then added a seam allowance to that new seam line on both the yoke pattern and the back pattern pieces. Below is a scan of the new back yoke.
I cut two from the back yoke piece and used one as a facing. I basically sewed the entire shirt except for the hems, stitched the back and front facings together at the shoulders and then stitched the facing to the neck of the shirt. I clipped the curves, turned, pressed, understitched and sewed the free edges of the facing in by hand. I really do love the back yoke. It's not hard to do at all and makes the whole design more cohesive when using contrasting fabrics.
![](http://bp1.blogger.com/_wxHUmTUnh00/R0SMjHwTSjI/AAAAAAAAA3s/gTV8s2j8S6o/s400/McCalls5388Yoke.gif)