Hi friends! Today I’m excited to finally share this lovely jumpsuit with you. I started this way back in October as part of the #sewfrosting challenge hosted by True Bias and Closet Case Patterns. The idea behind the challenge is to sew things that are fun and not necessarily practical. I had this gorgeous fabric in my stash for way too long and the challenge inspired me to finally take the plunge and use it. I honestly have not worn this jumpsuit yet except for taking photos but I’m blaming the weather. As soon as it’s a little warmer, I hope to give this jumpsuit a proper debut.
For the pattern, I selected the Judith Jumpsuit by Schnitten Patterns. I won this pattern as part of an IG contest a few years and has it as part of my 2018 Make Nine list. The design has really interesting petal sleeves (not sure if that’s the correct word at all), a center back zipper, center front seam and an elasticized waist. The pattern pieces are just front, back, sleeves, facings and waistband casing. Personally, I like to have a seam at the waist when there is elastic at the waist because I think it’s easier to attach and easier to fit. My Lou Box Dress 2 pattern features an elasticized waist and uses the waist seam to create the casing for the elastic. so I’m obviously partial to my own methods.
Anyway, I made a few changes to this pattern. My measurements are high bust: 35.5", bust 38.5", waist: 29” and hips 39”. I traced a size 40 at the shoulders, waist and hip and a size 44 at the bust. Because I’m 5’11” I also added 2” to the body length. After tracing, I did a tissue fitting and decided to lower the bust dart as well. The most dramatic design change I made was to shorten the legs and change the shape to a wider, culotte style leg. I was originally thinking that I’d cut it much shorter, around mid-thigh but after trying it on at this length, I decided I really liked the midi length.
Schnitten patterns include written instructions but no illustrations. At one time, they had a photo tutorial online for this pattern but I haven't been able to find it. Construction went fine without illustrations or photos except for one minor part. I changed the order of things and attached and finished the sleeves before sewing the neckline facing. I didn't realize that the neckline facing extended all the way to the shoulder and could have been finished along with the sleeve and shoulder. Not a big deal but it created an extra step for me. I decided to turn the neckline facing under and hand stitch to the shoulder seam allowance.
I think the instructions do a lapped zipper at the back but I did an invisible zipper instead. An invisible zipper is really pretty easy to attach and in my experience just looks better than a lapped zipper because it really is nearly invisible.
If you have a little experience sewing then this pattern should be fine but I wouldn't recommend to a beginner unless you have someone to help, especially if you're a visual learner.
If I make this pattern again, the only thing I would change is the armhole opening because it feels a little bit tight on me. I could either cut a larger size for the armhole or I think if the sleeves were not overlapped as much, then I’d have more range of movement. If you’re unsure about fitting this part, I recommend basting on the sleeves and trying it on to test the fit. I do think that the front of this jumpsuit is a lot more flattering than the back. Maybe there’s something with the back crotch curve that could be done? I was really free wheeling it when I adjusted this pattern.
This fabric is a silk that was gifted to me by The Fabric Store a few years ago. I love the design of the print and the drape is perfect for this project. I’m so glad that I finally used this fabric and that it’s no longer just sitting in my stash. I have quite a few more pieces of fabric that are precious and just begging to be used. Now, I just have to wait for the weather to turn nice again so that I can wear this lovely jumpsuit.
