As garment sewists, we often strive to have our fabric perfectly matching across a seam and it’s honestly not the easiest thing to achieve. So in today’s video, I’m sharing seven tips for how to match plaid or striped fabric while sewing. These techniques can be used for sewing shirts, dresses and even pants. For example, if you’re sewing some plaid flannel pajama pants this season, you will definitely want to check out these tips.
7 tips for matching stripes and plaids
1. Cut on a single layer
It will be a lot easier to make sure that everything is lined up the way you want if you cut with your fabric in a single layer. Yes, it will take more time but it will be worth it if perfectly matched patterns are your goal.
2. Trace pattern pieces onto translucent paper
If you watched my cut vs trace video then you know that I am (generally) team cut. One drawback that hadn’t occurred to me when I made that video is that sometimes, you want to be able to see through the pattern to make sure the design on your fabric is in the desired position. So, trace your pattern onto translucent paper and you’ll be able to easily see if the fabric is skewed or out of place.
3. Align pattern notches with fabric design
Make a mark on the pattern where a particular stripe is located. Notches are handy for this.
4. When sewing, place a pin in each stripe
It might seem excessive but this will help you keep everything lined up.
5. Baste first
It’s much easier to remove basting stitches than normal length stitches. So, don’t waste your time with the seam ripper and baste the seam first to make sure everything is lined up. This is especially important if you are sewing a knit with a lightning (aka stretch) stitch, which is particularly beastly to remove.
6. Use a walking foot
A walking foot will help feed the fabric evenly and ensure that your stripes and plaids stay lined up.
7. Cut some pieces on the bias
This technique lets you avoid the pattern matching headache altogether and it’s one of my favorites. If you cut some pattern pieces, like pockets or yokes, on the bias, then it’s a design choice. The bias cut pieces highlight the design lines of the garment and you don’t even have to think about pattern matching. Button down shirts or shirt dresses lend themselves particularly well to this tactic.
My final parting words on matching plaids and stripes is to give you permission to NOT stress about it. Most ready-to-wear clothing does not have matched patterns because the average consumer doesn’t care about it. By all means, if you get a feeling of satisfaction out of a perfectly matched pattern, then go for it. But if it’s causing you stress and frustration, then go ahead and skip it. Please. Just skip it. Because sewing should be fun.
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